TromboneChat

Looking for a step up bass bone for a brass band setting. Not looking for a custom horn. Independent valves, single bore. Second hand/ used.
What brands should I consider.
Holton?? Getzen? Yamaha?
Not looking to spend a fortune.

Yamaha would be a safe choice. Excellent, consistent quality; reasonable price.

Yam markets its YBL-620G as an “entry level” professional bass. Dependant though. I don’t think they make an independent bass until you get into the Xeno 830.

I've still got my eyes on this one:

https://wessex-tubas.com/collections/tr ... one-pbf565

Any thoughts on the Holton 181. Do 10 inch bells require more air?

The Yamaha 613s are double independent. They are pretty good,very solid but I really struggled with the ergonomics of the levers.

The first bass I owned was the 181 & I liked the sound I was able to make on it. It was the one I used when I was in the army for everything except marching. Again ergonomically for me it was a little bit awkward & I can remember having red marks left on the side of my neck from the rotors. In terms of the blow compared to a 9.5inch bell,I would say it's negligible.

Getzen 1052fd is a good choice as well.

I think the Holton 181 is quirky. Funny intonation, too much slide corrections. But I did only know one horn.
Yammies are all good and consistent, 613H and Xeno spring into mind.
Don't forget Conn 62HI and Conn 112H, I have the later which I really like.
For big band a King 7B is excellent,I use it much. for brass band maybe a King 8B, never tried one though.
Never have seen a Getzen in DK, so I can't comment.
Sometimes a used Bach 50 with Indies comes up, many beeing fine, a few dogs. Much resistance in their old fashioned rotary valves, though.
Tried a Courtois in a shop once, definitely a good horn too.
Stay away from Besson Sovereign, Bossey and Weril Gagliard, I had those many years ago, and they where sluggish in response and dull in tonal color.

Do you really need double rotors? If not, there are a lot of used vintage Conn single rotor models available on the used market. Love my 72H!

tailgate wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2020 1:00 am Any thoughts on the Holton 181. Do 10 inch bells require more air?

The diameter that the flare is trimmed to does not matter for air or perceived air. There are more differences I. The horns that will change how they blow, the diameter is not one of them.

Cheers,
Andy

bigbandbone wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2020 5:54 am Do you really need double rotors? If not, there are a lot of used vintage Conn single rotor models available on the used market. Love my 72H!

Or a single-valve Yamaha YBL-421G
(See related thread: http://trombonechat.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=12997)

I play a Bach 50 single valve. There are a few low b's at blastissimo.
Shoulder and elbow issues prevent a reliable extended 7th position.
At times there isn't sufficient time pull to e either.

Any specific reason for independent? If dependent is OK YBL-620G is a good choice. Or even 611/612.

Tailgate what is your actual budget?

Budget 2k to 2.5au.
Really just trying to focus the search.
Also looking for used within Australia.

No one has mentioned the Benge 290 yet; a well-regarded but often overlooked instrument.

A friend was thinking about selling his Benge 290 if anyone is interested.

RoscoTrombone wrote: ↑Sat Jan 18, 2020 1:22 am The Yamaha 613s are double independent. They are pretty good,very solid but I really struggled with the ergonomics of the levers.

The 613H was the last of that series, and it was definitely a full professional horn. The 830 was developed directly from it. Yamaha tends to "under" market their horns. Quite a number of professionals used the 612 and 613 horns.

I found that the only really "comfortable" way to play Yamaha basses is the way Doug Yeo does, putting the slide brace between the middle and ring fingers, and moving the paddle back towards the tuning slide.

I have a King 6B Duo Gravis I would sell if you are interested. You can email me.

Neo Bri wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2020 11:08 pm I have a King 6B Duo Gravis I would sell if you are interested. You can email me.

Tailgate I know you stated independent valves however that King Duo Gravis that someone offered would probably be a good bet as they're very responsive and "easy" to play. There are also several OX basses on eBay at great prices. An inline(independent) one in pristine condition for around 2K. I also saw a 613H somewhere for $2200. All of the above are professional instruments that should give you years of service.

Does the Yamaha YBL-421G have an in-tune low C? And can it be "lipped" down to a B? I remember having a reasonable faked low B on a B&H single valve bass, but that was a long time ago, so my judgement may be a little out.

The Shires Q series might push the budget a bit, but they're really fine horns. In my opinion, better than the Yamaha and Getzen independents. Your mileage may vary, of course...

Regarding choice of valves: I started bass on a Yamaha 612 (dependent) I bought used a few years ago and I really loved that horn, but I really didn't like the side by side triggers. I now play an 50B3 (independent). I'm certainly not leveraging the independent valves enough since I barely use the second by itself, but I certainly notice improved facility from having split triggers.

That said, the 612 was relatively inexpensive and played very well. I sold it for the same price I bought it for. I guess there's no real moral to this post--take what you will from it!

Pre59 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:39 am Does the Yamaha YBL-421G have an in-tune low C? And can it be "lipped" down to a B? I remember having a reasonable faked low B on a B&H single valve bass, but that was a long time ago, so my judgement may be a little out.

I have to extend the slide out as far as possible on my 421G for a decent low C. Low B's are out of the question for me, except maaaaaaybe in trigger 5th if it isn't a sustained and/or important note. Otherwise, I just find another note that sounds right to replace the low B. Someone playing in an organized group may not be permitted to do that, however.

I think this is basically why Yamaha has designated the 421G as an intermediate horn. But I bought one because I didn't want a cosmetically-challenged vintage horn and I believed the 421G would be a bit lighter weight than a vintage horn. It suits my needs perfectly.

I have a 613G, double independent with a rose brass 10" bell. Picked it up on this forum for around 1200 €. Horn was in great shape, and I really like the horn. I double on tenor, and now also Eb tuba.

To me, Yamaha are consistent and solid, and there is no problem getting spare parts if needed.

Pre59 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:39 am Does the Yamaha YBL-421G have an in-tune low C?

Yes, it's a fine low C – but as previously noted, you have to stretch your arm a long way to get there. I've finally learned where to place this note to get it in tune, and am pleased with the results.

Posaunus wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:39 am

Pre59 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:39 am Does the Yamaha YBL-421G have an in-tune low C?

Yes, it's a fine low C – but as previously noted, you have to stretch your arm a long way to get there. I've finally learned where to place this note to get it in tune, and am pleased with the results.

I've been thinking about getting a single valve bass to "see me out" possibly to play in a BBB. I wouldn't buy one untried, but I can play a convincing low Eb in long 7th and 4th on a small bore tenor, so that may be an indicator of a "believable" B on a single valve?

Pre59 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:47 am

Posaunus wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:39 am

Yes, it's a fine low C – but as previously noted, you have to stretch your arm a long way to get there. I've finally learned where to place this note to get it in tune, and am pleased with the results.

I've been thinking about getting a single valve bass to "see me out" possibly to play in a BBB. I wouldn't buy one untried, but I can play a convincing low Eb in long 7th and 4th on a small bore tenor, so that may be an indicator of a "believable" B on a single valve?

The work on false tones is more encouraging than sticking the slide out and lipping down. Same for the B, it will be in a similar place with a single valve. I will note that false tones for me are always easier on small horns than on bigger ones, but they are there and useful. I much prefer my single basses and HATE to bring a different horn or valve section just for one note on a concert. That said, if there are a bunch of Cs and Bs in a program, I bring the double.

Cheers,
Andy

From personal experience, if you prefer a "smaller" bass trom mouthpiece (a 2AL, 1 1/2, or 1) I'd recommend the Holton 181 for an 'inexpensive' Brass Band bass.
I played one for 10 years in brass bands form 3rd to 1st section, alongside a mix of Yamaha, Conn, and Rath Tenor trombones and didn't have any major issues blending with them. You should be able to pick up a decent 181 second hand for around £1000.
Due to the valves and wrap design there's more resistance then you'd get from a many of the modern top end bass troms but I found that worked to my advantage as I was better able to support loud low notes. Compared to a Shires or Rath with Haagman valves and an open wrap I did not have the final 5-10% of volume down around the pedal register, but I used 30-40% less air, and could get just as much bite.

I only moved onto a Rath R9 as I got one set up rather like the Holton. Yes it is basically better in every way, but at 5 times the price you'd hope it would be