Wiping down horn after practices/concerts

[Trhtrbn]

Should I wipe the inner and outer slides each time after playing with my slide-o-mix rod with a rag attached, then wipe down the exposed brass with a polishing cloth? Or is once a week enough?

[ghmerrill]

"Exposed brass"?

[GabrielRice]

It's a good idea to take those steps at the end of each day. Wiping down the contact points of the exterior will make the lacquer last longer, and swabbing the slide will prevent corrosion from forming. If you have valves, it's also a good idea to oil them at the end of your playing day to prevent corrosion.

Do I do all of that every day? No.

[ghmerrill]

Do I do all of that every day? No.

Yeah.

I think that modern lacquers are virtually impervious to any normal kind of degradation or damage. Even if you use a soldering torch on lacquered tubing it takes a while for it to discolor! Older lacquers ... well, probably better to take more care. If I clean/"polish" my lacquered instruments once a year, I figure I'm doing pretty well with them, though I may run a rag over one just before a performance.

In terms of slide treatment, I've been wondering about this lately. I decided to improve my approach and now possess both an outer slide swab and an inner slide swab, which I intend to use. Really, I do. Really. But how often? After every practice session? Seems excessive. As the mood moves me? Seems kind of random and unprincipled.

In terms of my valved instruments ... For the piston valves, I'll wipe down and oil them maybe once a week -- sometimes less frequently. With the synthetic valve oils I use (generally Yamaha "light" or "regular"), it's just not necessary. For rotary valves? On my rotary valve tubas and euphs I'd rarely lubricate them -- they just don't need the lubrication that pistons do. But "every once in a while." On my bass trombone I confess I've become a bit more doting on them and seem to oil them once a week or more. One reason may be that it's a lot easier than oiling four tuba rotary valves; and another may have to do with the quality of the valves -- though for the most part I find it hard to think about lubricating rotary valves (aside from the bushings).

So back to trombone hand slide treatment ... I'm unclear on why anything more than an "as needed" approach should be taken to this when that's basically the approach taken to piston valves which are probably (?) more sensitive to these issues. Yet I frequently see recommendations to swab both the inside and outside hand slide after EVERY practice or performance. What's really the concern here? And is it based on anything empirical, or just on a "feeling" about what the "best practice" is?

[tbdana]

So back to trombone hand slide treatment ... I'm unclear on why anything more than an "as needed" approach should be taken to this... What's really the concern here? And is it based on anything empirical, or just on a "feeling" about what the "best practice" is?

This.

[bitbckt]

My body chemistry eats lacquer for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Old, new. Doesn’t matter. I learned to stop worrying about it long ago, and wrap my neck pipes.

Slides I’m actively using will get a swab and re-application of Yamasnot once per week to keep the green/black gunk from building up. I store slides dry.

I guess that constitutes my “as needed” approach. It’s worked fine for almost 30 years now.

[GabrielRice]

OK, first, some companies - Shires, for example - deliberately use very thin lacquer in order to minimize the effects on response and sound. Shires lacquer wears very quickly for most people.

As to the question about why keep the slide clean and swab it often: the goal is to minimize corrosion, which forms as moisture is evaporating. Corrosion can build up on the insides of the outer tubes and affect the action. Corrosion can lead to red rot, which will ultimately lead to holes in the crook, the tubes, and the leadpipe.

Corrosion is bad.

It probably doesn't happen as quickly on trumpet valves because they are covered in oil frequently.

Trombone players as a group are TERRIBLE about keeping their instruments clean and well lubricated. We can do better.

[ghmerrill]

I get the "Corrosion is bad" part. But I think we need to distinguish between genuine corrosion (which is a process that chemically changes the state of a metal) from "deposits" that may form on the surface of the metal. What I don't get is how that corrosion is supposedly happening to nickel plated slides. So, okay, then let's take the inner slide out of the discussion because it's plated. That leaves us with the outer slide which is (at least typically?) not plated and is raw brass.

The broad argument about corrosion of the outer slide, however, applies to the interior of virtually any tubing on any brass instrument. And it's not clear what kind of "corrosion" can "build up" there. Corrosion is really an invasive chemical proces.

Typical things that happen are oxidation and calcification. One of these is a chemical process of the metal, and the other is a process of deposits forming on the metal surface. But both take time to form and are pretty easily addressed even if you let them get ahead of you to some degree. While it's good to clean your tuba or euphonium regularly (for several reasons including your own health!), most (who do it at all ) do it once a year -- simply because it's such a big task. They sure don't swab it daily. I used to do it twice a year, but I'm now down to once.

It's not always clear what people mean by "red rot". Often this is a reference to any reddish/brownish spot that may appear on the instrument. But there's a perfectly harmless red oxide of brass that's not the dreaded "red rot" (which is not an oxide at all). I had an old Martin euphonium once that was virtually covered with it because the original lacquer had worn off years in the past. And often when people see a red spot on their instrument, it's this oxide.

The truly dreaded red rot is the result of dezincification of the brass, where the zinc that's part of the alloy leaches out of the matrix (leaving "holes" in what was the brass alloy). Ironically, this can be caused by the same conditions that would alleviate the also dreaded "mineral deposits" (it's like thermodynamics: you can't win, you can't even break even, and you can't get out of the game). Acidic water with low mineral and salt content (and possibly also containing chlorine -- often used in water supplies) can contribute to the environment in which dezincification can take place. I once almost caused myself a serious problem in doing a thorough cleaning of a beautiful red brass (90% copper) tuba I had when I left vinegar in the slides a bit too long. Luckily I suddenly realized what the consequences of that might be.

So I guess that I'm not very concerned about detrimental corrosive effects to my hand slide if I don't swab it after every use, but do follow some regular cleaning schedule -- which I do, and which acceptable functioning of the slide requires. Still, I think I will be using those new slide swabs I got on a fairly regular basis -- just in the hope of making the slide work better between thorough cleanings.

[JohnL]

Several of the top techs here in SoCal preach the gospel of cleaning/drying slides after every use - in part for preventing corrosion, but also for preventing mineral buildup. Think back to your last visit to the dentist. Likely a significant portion of your time in the chair was spent having someone scrape the tartar off of you choppers. It's bad enough on your teeth, but if it starts to build up on the inside of your outer slide, it's going to act as an abrasive on the mating surfaces.

[atopper333]

Not to sure about the corrosion aspect of the discussion…maybe my approach is more on having a clean slide. I wipe down the chrome on the inner slide, use a cleaning rod with a cut down blue shop towel to get most of the moisture out, and then hit the outer with a brass saver to get the moisture out of the end crook. It keeps the slide very clean…and clean and well maintained instruments just last longer. It takes a few minutes to do, and for me, it’s worth it. I do tend to wipe down the outside of the horn as well, but then again, mine have very little lacquer remaining.

[sf105]

I started wiping down the grip regularly because I have mostly old horns some of which are pretty corroded.
On the advice of my tech, after dealing with a particularly crusted up inner, I started wiping inside the slide at least after gig days and especially if the horn will not be used for a while. He suggested just using half a kitchen roll square to get the moisture out.

[greenbean]

To answer the OP's question. A large majority of bone players do not swab or dry their slides. But some do, clearly.

[tbonesullivan]

I wipe down all contact points on all of my horns after a practice section, concert, etc. As for the inner and outer slides, It may depend on your own chemical makeup, basically how much calcium minerals you blow into the horn.

On the other hand, the only place where I really notice mineral buildup is inside my tuning slides, though I guess it's not the same thing. They get white inside after a while. I definitely don't have any of that on the inside of my inner slides, which are cleaned several times a week.

[SimmonsTrombone]

It would seem from the above that the best practice for slides would be to dry them them to relube with a non-water based lube such as the Yamaha or trombotine without water. The idea being to coat the slide surfaces with something to prevent corrosion or whatever. I'm sure there's an argument against this.

[timothy42b]

To answer the OP's question. A large majority of bone players do not swab or dry their slides. But some do, clearly.

A warrior polishes his armor before battle, not because he expects to survive, but because it is a measure of the impeccable way he lives his life.

Attributed to Miyamoto Musashi, but I haven't confirmed that.

[ghmerrill]

I guess if I had a trombone made of the metals and alloys of those times, and subjected to the weather and effects of marching and battle and living in tents with it, I'd likely clean it more often than I do the ones I have.

[Burgerbob]

I clean my slides once... ish a week. I do not wipe them down every time I use them.

[JohnL]

I clean my slides once... ish a week. I do not wipe them down every time I use them.

My daily driver gets cleaned and relubed once or occasionally twice a week. The others are stored with dry slides, as it could be some time before they come back up in the rotation again.

A warrior polishes his armor before battle, not because he expects to survive, but because it is a measure of the impeccable way he lives his life.

Attributed to Miyamoto Musashi, but I haven't confirmed that.

I think the better parallel is black powder firearms; if you used it, you weren't supposed to go to sleep that night until you'd cleaned it.

[ghmerrill]

I think the better parallel is black powder firearms; if you used it, you weren't supposed to go to sleep that night until you'd cleaned it.

But that's not a good parallel either precisely because of the (chemical) natures (and speeds) of the "corrosion" in the two cases and the metallurgy involved. In fact, you can leave it overnight if you've fired it -- and many people do this during hunting season because the cleaning ritual is just too bothersome (to them). However you definitely can't leave it more than about a day (if you've fired it) because of the severe oxidation reaction that takes place from the black powder residue and the steel. But that reaction in itself is quite dissimilar to what goes on inside our brass instruments -- and especially if your concern is really red rot or mineral deposits rather than some very minor brass oxide formation, and neither of those appear at all rapidly.

That said ... I won't leave any of my BP guns to sit overnight if they've been fired. If you use genuine black powder (and not one of the synthetics), it's still the way to go: cleaning them with soap and hot water -- or just soap and water. Luckily, BP residue is water soluble.

In the old days of the American West it was common for cavalry patrols returning to post to all throw their revolvers in a big tub of hot water so they could be cleaned by some bunch of enlisted guys (or civilians) who hadn't gone out. Often, throughout history, people who could afford steel armor also had servants to maintain it for them. (In fact, "armor polisher" was a specialized trade.)

[Posaunus]

Several of the top techs here in SoCal preach the gospel of cleaning/drying slides after every use - in part for preventing corrosion, but also for preventing mineral buildup. Think back to your last visit to the dentist. Likely a significant portion of your time in the chair was spent having someone scrape the tartar off of you choppers. It's bad enough on your teeth, but if it starts to build up on the inside of your outer slide, it's going to act as an abrasive on the mating surfaces.

My daily driver gets cleaned and relubed once or occasionally twice a week. The others are stored with dry slides, as it could be some time before they come back up in the rotation again.

As has (perhaps) JohnL, I have become a member of the anal-compulsive trombone cleaning cult. I've too often watched (super slide tech) Bruce Belo do his time-consuming cleaning and polishing routine of inner slides. His polishing cloths put through slides from other trombonists (who think their slides are O.K.) often come out looking like Mamaposaune's (viewtopic.php?p=228258#p228258). I guess you don't know what you can't see, but the stuff adhered to the inside of your outer slide is probably pretty yucky, and really does contribute to increasing poorer slide performance and premature wear. I've learned my lesson (I think) and adopted Bruce's recommended slide hygiene protocol. I rotate among several horns every week, so what I play today might not be used again for several days. So if not the same day, within 24-48-hours of playing I thoroughly clean and dry inner and outer slides (and put a little oil on my rotary valves if applicable) and store the trombone in the case until needed again. This process really does seem to keep my slides clean and "factory fresh" (or better, considering what Conn-Selmer is apparently shipping out these days). [To minimize mineral deposits, I only use purified (distilled or reverse osmosis) water to spray on my slides.] My slides are slick!

If you only play a single trombone, I'd still recommend cleaning and drying at least weekly if not more often.

[ghmerrill]

I guess you don't know what you can't see, but the stuff adhered to the inside of your outer slide is probably pretty yucky, and really does contribute to increasing poorer slide performance and premature wear.

This is why I clean the slide as often as I do (though not necessarily weekly) -- a matter of function and reasonable (I emphasize the "reasonable" aspect) hygiene. However, I do clean the OUTER slide more often, if not thoroughly. But I'm not compelled by the view that unless I do the cleaning daily, or every time I use the instrument, or ... that the result will be the excessive and dire sort of example that is sometimes used in an attempt to bolster the aggressively frequent approach.

[To minimize mineral deposits, I only use purified (distilled or reverse osmosis) water to spray on my slides.]

Because of where we live, and the "services" provided to us by the county, we've had a serious water filter and an RO unit for about 30 years. So definitely the trombone spray bottle contains RO water. We don't drink the tap water. And of course, even the pre-RO water has been quite effectively scrubbed of minerals.

If you only play a single trombone, I'd still recommend cleaning and drying at least weekly if not more often.

Ah ... just when you were starting to sound reasonable, you had to veer back to the dark side (dark slide?) of compulsive cleaning. I don't mind other people being compulsive (at least in non-invasive ways). My sister is a cleanliness compulsive and has been from an early age -- about the time she got into professional nursing. There are never dirty dishes in her sink, and if you put a dish or a glass down she's likely to wash it on the spot (or within fifteen minutes or so). Still, we manage to co-exist -- at least for fairly short periods of time.

[atopper333]

Sure thing you don’t have to clean it every time…it’s kinda a matter of personal preference I guess…

Perhaps the example of a semi-automatic pistol is more applicable than black powder given the temperamental nature involved. Sure, I ‘torture tested’ a Glock and didn’t clean it for about 1,000 rounds and it still functioned fine. Would I have used it for home defense without cleaning and properly lubricating it, absolutely not. If you want it to work, or rely on it to do its intended function, it should be well maintained.

As most of my current horns are rather well aged…I feel it is important to be excessively cleanly to maximize life on the instruments to maintain the current parts on the horn as replacing slide tubes, slides, etc… can ultimately change the way the horns plays/feels.

It is a matter of personal preference in the end, and in the end this will probably go down as debated as slide lock rings, rubber slide end bumpers, and rotor caps…not to stir the pot or anything….

[ghmerrill]

If you want it to work, or rely on it to do its intended function, it should be well maintained.

I don't think there's a single person in this thread that disagrees with this. It just a question of what it means.

[Posaunus]

I guess you don't know what you can't see, but the stuff adhered to the inside of your outer slide is probably pretty yucky, and really does contribute to increasing poorer slide performance and premature wear.

If you only play a single trombone, I'd still recommend cleaning and drying at least weekly if not more often.

Ah ... just when you were starting to sound reasonable, you had to veer back to the dark side (dark slide?) of compulsive cleaning.

Sorry Gary, but I come by the "dark-side" compulsiveness honestly - I spent more than 20 years designing and overseeing the use of medical devices whose performance depended on cleanliness (among other things) and saw the benefits of consistent and thorough hygiene. Besides, I don't want to go back to Belo to get a trombone repaired and get chewed out (in very salty language) for having a dirty slide.

The few extra minutes/day I spend on maintenance seem worth it for the superb slide performance I get.

[JohnL]

Perhaps the example of a semi-automatic pistol is more applicable than black powder given the temperamental nature involved. Sure, I ‘torture tested’ a Glock and didn’t clean it for about 1,000 rounds and it still functioned fine. Would I have used it for home defense without cleaning and properly lubricating it, absolutely not. If you want it to work, or rely on it to do its intended function, it should be well maintained.

I use black powder as an analogy because not cleaning a black powder firearm has long term consequences (corrosion) beyond just impeding function due to being "gunked up". The pitted bore of poorly maintained black powder barrel looks a lot like the inside of a badly pitted inner slide.

[atopper333]

Perhaps the example of a semi-automatic pistol is more applicable than black powder given the temperamental nature involved. Sure, I ‘torture tested’ a Glock and didn’t clean it for about 1,000 rounds and it still functioned fine. Would I have used it for home defense without cleaning and properly lubricating it, absolutely not. If you want it to work, or rely on it to do its intended function, it should be well maintained.

I use black powder as an analogy because not cleaning a black powder firearm has long term consequences (corrosion) beyond just impeding function due to being "gunked up". The pitted bore of poorly maintained black powder barrel looks a lot like the inside of a badly pitted inner slide.

I definitely can’t argue that! That’s exactly what my 60s Tempo looks like! I think my example was more of a short term one…an error in words or poor explanation on my part!

[chouston3]

I don’t wipe down my horn, but I do rinse out my mouthpiece.

[Posaunus]

I don’t wipe down my horn, but I do rinse out my mouthpiece.

Inside of outer slide: Out of sight, out of mind.
[Until your tech has to clean the gunk off to show you how dirty and (probably) pitted it is.]

[Mr412]

The trombone is a rather delicate, precision-made musical instrument! Keeping it meticulously clean is a noble concept, IMO. However, it comes with a risk/reward. There is at least one thread on this venerable forum asking for help in removing a stuck swab in a slide tube. So there is an elevated risk of damage to the horn - the more aggressive one pursues cleanliness.

That said, I wipe down the outside of the inners after every play and apply fresh lube when I pick it back up the next time. I also wipe off the outside of the entire horn with a Pledge-impregnated soft, clean cloth. The inside of the outers get thoroughly cleaned about once a month or so. No one else plays this horn but me. Works for me.

[Posaunus]

There is at least one thread on this venerable forum asking for help in removing a stuck swab in a slide tube. So there is an elevated risk of damage to the horn - the more aggressive one pursues cleanliness.

Instead of a "swab (of cloth) on a stick" use the Slide-O-Mix towel sheath on the Slide-O-Mix cleaning rod.
The free end of the sheath never penetrates the slide, so you can always pull it out; won't get stuck.

https://www.dillonmusic.com/slide-o-mix-towel-sheath/

[tbonesullivan]

I use the Brass-savr brushes in addition to standard rods and the SOM system. I do admit that some of my slides are PAST DUE for a wet cleaning. Oops.

[Mr412]

Thanks, guys. SOM cleaning system now on order.

[ghmerrill]

Instead of a "swab (of cloth) on a stick" use the Slide-O-Mix towel sheath on the Slide-O-Mix cleaning rod.
The free end of the sheath never penetrates the slide, so you can always pull it out; won't get stuck.

I've been using these for several years and they're quite effective. But anyone worrying about "corrosion," or "deposits," or "contamination" in the slide should be worrying about the best practice in using the towel sheath. If it works (and it does), then after you use it, it's got what used to be in the slide now stuck in its fibers. And do you want to ram that down your slide the next time you clean it? So then you need a washing/drying program for the towel sheath. How frequent should THAT be?

It's always something.

I suspect we'll get some responses from the traditional cheese cloth crowd on this, and it will be hard to disagree. But I don't think I'm going in that direction.

[OneTon]

2-inch by 2.5 yard gauze roles from your favorite supplier of pharmaceuticals or at Walmart (tradename Equate) for $1.49. Thread it through the slot leaving two equal lengths, make a small bulb around the end, and barber pole the remainder up the rod. Hang on to the gauze ends or tie them in the round loop for storage. The bulb is only intended to protect the crook. It need not be sized to swab the inner diameter of tubes.

[Mr412]

Sure. Why not! Cheesecloth. The right size & length!

OBTW, I still think there is a risk/reward taking a horn apart to clean. It doesn't take much at all to dent the outer tubes, via a fall or bumping into something. A friend told me that.

[ghmerrill]

Woodwind or high brass players will frequently do that for you. You won't need to do it yourself.

[Posaunus]

Woodwind or high brass players will frequently do that for you. You won't need to do it yourself.

I have found saxophonists and violists to be particularly clumsy. Beware when they near your trombone!

By the way the Slid-O-Mix cleaning system Mr412 ordered is much more effective than cheesecloth.
The towel sheath will not only clean but also absorb moisture and DRY the slide inner surface.
These sheaths are easily washed, by hand or in the washing machine, to remove the embedded dirt.

[ghmerrill]

I do wash mine in the machine -- and have two so I can "rotate" them in use/washing. They also fit very tightly in the outer slide (there are distinct sizes for bass and tenor trombones), so there is quite a bit of friction in the tube. Still, from carefully examining the tubes before and after cleaning, I don't think that these are fully as effective as a one-time use of something like the gauze strip or cheesecloth. They're basically just terrycloth sleeves and don't seem to have as much continuous contact with the tube surface as a closely woven cotton swab. I continue to use them -- but more for "interim" (mostly "dry") swabbings between thorough cleanings with detergents or solvents.

[chouston3]

In general, I take my slide to the bath tub and gently run warm water through it once per week.
Then I will run my cleaning rod through the outer slide. I tend to leave the inside of the inner slides alone.
During the week, if my trombone needs it, I will use my cleaning rod on the outer slides and re apply lube.
This works for me.
About once per quarter I will do a full clean. I am still squeamish about using my cleaning rod on the inner slide but I will use my snake brush but only from mouth piece receiver to end. Years ago, I did the reverse with a bach student trombone and ripped up the lead pipe.

[Posaunus]

About once per quarter I will do a full clean. I am still squeamish about using my cleaning rod on the inner slide but I will use my snake brush but only from mouth piece receiver to end. Years ago, I did the reverse with a bach student trombone and ripped up the lead pipe.

You should indeed be squeamish abbot cleaning the inner slide, for just the reason that you observed.
I suggest that instead of using a violent metal "snake" with a stiff leadpipe-destroying brush on the end, that you use the gentle HW Products Brass-Saver (soft pull-through brush with a long plastic lead ribbon – will pass through the inner slide without damaging the leadpipe, and through the entire outer slide, including the end crook!). I use the “Tuba” size for my large-bore trombones. You can do this frequently (weekly) with no harm.

[ghmerrill]

I suggest that instead of using a violent metal "snake" with a stiff leadpipe-destroying brush on the end, ...

I suppose there are snakes like this -- in fact, I think I still have one in a drawer somewhere, but I don't use it on any trombone/euph/tuba slides. It's the "old style" snake with the metal cable. But I have two (or maybe three?) snakes that have plastic cable and plastic brushes on them. They don't harm anything in my slides. Alas, they're also not very effective in actually cleaning anything since they don't have much contact with the surfaces. I use one of them only when I feel the need to run something through a crook or over the water key nipple (the part inside the slide) in an attempt to dislodge any built-up "gunk" there (though I'm pretty sure that the regular swabbing takes care of the water key issue).

I suppose that I should run my endoscope camera down the outer slide at some point and see what it actually looks like. It can be quite surprising at times in showing unexpected things.

[Reedman1]

I wipe down the outside of my inner slide and dry the inside with a Yamaha slide swab, and I use a the slide swab on the outer slide and the bell, then finish both with the Slide-O-Mix terrycloth swab. I do this at the end of my playing day, every day. I did this on my metal horns, and carried it over to my daily driver, a Butler JJ. I suppose I developed the habit when I was a woodwind player, since woodwinds are very delicate and easily damaged by deficient hygiene; I also cleaned my trumpets and lubed them at the end of the playing day. It’s what you might call “cheap insurance “. Not only does it keep the horns in tip-top shape, but it also reduces the risk of a respiratory infection. Not saying everyone should do this, but when I have bought instruments or mouthpieces that were dirty on arrival, my opinion of the seller has dropped like a rock.
BTW silk clarinet swabs and alto sax swabs are terrific for drying out the inner slides.

[ghmerrill]

... when I have bought instruments or mouthpieces that were dirty on arrival, my opinion of the seller has dropped like a rock.

You should have seen my 1924 Buescher silver Eb tuba when I bought it about 10 years ago (for $250). I'm not sure that it had EVER been cleaned, but the most hilarious part of that was ...

The previous owner had been using a bass trombone mouthpiece in it, and in addition insisted that it was pitched to A=440 although "You may need to lip some of the notes." The fact that the silver finish was tarnished to the black stage and that it looked as though someone had taken both a BB gun and an axe to it at some point in its life was, of course, a clue.

I managed (huge effort) to de-dent it pretty thoroughly, and polishing it was no problem (though a lot of effort and repetition) -- it has one of the period double or triple depth silver platings on it. The first time I took a hacksaw to it, I couldn't believe the thickness of the silver I was cutting through.

The only reason that a bass trombone mouthpiece could be used on it and fit the receiver well was that the receiver had apparently never been cleaned and had built up such a layer of crud in it that the bass trombone shank came to fit it. After four (!) thorough cleanings, it became clear that the receiver was one of those "small European" tuba receivers, and almost nothing fit it (Wick has mouthpieces that do, but eventually I replaced the receiver). I shudder to think of the toxins and organisms that horn was supporting.

Oh, and of course it wasn't pitched to 440. Indeed, on it's second valve was factory-engraved "low pitch" -- which many would take to be A=440 for that period. But that's not what it meant. It just meant "not high pitch". With some effort, I could establish the pitch as A=435. So that was pretty straightforward to fix. And with the standard American tuba receiver and a Kelly 25 mouthpiece, it plays quite well in tune at 440 and sounds good. But I tend to use it only on July 4.

[Reedman1]

Yep, that’s bad. I’m talking about crusty mouthpieces and lead pipes that have never been pulled, so there’s a lot of nasty crud under them. But your tuba wins.

I have a nice low pitch Hilton cornet from 1911; tuned to about 435. And a rather dirty Highsm euphonium, pitch uncertain, that my father bought for $10 in 1950. Probably worth the price…

Anyway, the moral is that cleaning your horn is a good idea.

[Mr412]

There is at least one thread on this venerable forum asking for help in removing a stuck swab in a slide tube. So there is an elevated risk of damage to the horn - the more aggressive one pursues cleanliness.

Instead of a "swab (of cloth) on a stick" use the Slide-O-Mix towel sheath on the Slide-O-Mix cleaning rod.
The free end of the sheath never penetrates the slide, so you can always pull it out; won't get stuck.

https://www.dillonmusic.com/slide-o-mix-towel-sheath/

Received one today. NICE! I ordered the large size for my Elkhart 88H. It's a snug fit and I can git a little warmth worked up as I burnish. Slide works great! I just ordered two more. I want spares for laundering.

[Posaunus]

Instead of a "swab (of cloth) on a stick" use the Slide-O-Mix towel sheath on the Slide-O-Mix cleaning rod.
The free end of the sheath never penetrates the slide, so you can always pull it out; won't get stuck.

https://www.dillonmusic.com/slide-o-mix-towel-sheath/

Received one today. NICE! I ordered the large size for my Elkhart 88H. It's a snug fit and I can git a little warmth worked up as I burnish. Slide works great! I just ordered two more. I want spares for laundering.

Glad you're pleased.
To complete your hygiene kit, buy an HW Products "Brass Saver" brush ('Tuba' size for your large-bore 88H).

[Mr412]

Glad you're pleased.
To complete your hygiene kit, buy an HW Products "Brass Saver" brush ('Tuba' size for your large-bore 88H).

On it's way! Thanks!