Shires Leadpipe Question

[Trombola2112]

I've been messing around with the pipes that came with my bass. I've also been reading on the options on their website. I'm curious on how would one know to try a short or long version of a pipe vs going with a different numbered pipe.

[DJWPE]

The L pipe (and the sterling silver pipes) feel different than the regular brass pipes of the same number. I can’t describe exactly the difference, but they’re worth trying.

[Burgerbob]

I've tried 1, 1.5, 1.5N, 1.5L, 1.8, 2, 2SS, 2L, 2.5L, 2.5, 3, and 3GL.

I always end up on the 2.

[GabrielRice]

I've tried 1, 1.5, 1.5N, 1.5L, 1.8, 2, 2SS, 2L, 2.5L, 2.5, 3, and 3GL.

I always end up on the 2.

Me too.

Short and long pipes do exactly what you think they will: the basic resistance level is similar to the plain numbered pipe, but the slotting is firmer on a long pipe and looser on a short pipe. Depending on how you play, that can mean the long pipe feels more restrictive and the short pipe more free, but it's not about the resistance of the venturi, which is the same.

[Crazy4Tbone86]

I went down the rabbit hole of experimenting with .547 leadpipes for several years in search of something that was perfect. Here are some generalizations that I came up with on my travels:

*Most people do get the best results right in the middle of the Shires system. That is why you hear of so many people playing on the #2 leadpipes.

*If you like the way that a leadpipe blows and desire a little more clarity in your articulation, try that one in an L (long).

*If you like the way that a leadpipe blows but feel that it slots a little too firmly (maybe you get stuck on notes while lip slurring) try the same leadpipe in an S (short).

*Be careful of the number 3 leadpipes and seek feedback from others. I liked the way a #3 played for me, but other musicians and recordings indicated that there was a lack of brilliance and focus in my sound.

*Sometimes alloys can have much more impact on a leadpipe than throat and length. I have tried some gold brass leadpipes (in sizes that the yellow brass worked well) and they were dull and lacked articulation clarity. I have done the same with nickel leadpipes and found the response very quick but the tone had an edge.

*The Shires system has oodles of options, but it is not the be-all, end-all. You might need to go beyond the options to find something that works for you. I had to modify one of my Shires leadpipes to make it work for me on a few of my horns. I modified a 2.5 long by opening up the apperture (throat) about 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch. I call it my Shires 2.7 long leadpipe.

I am mostly playing bass trombone these days. Fortunately, I quickly found a .562 leadpipe that really works well for me. I was dreading going through a multi-year adventure with bass leadpipes!

[walldaja]

I've always been a "2" user but our music for our May concert requires a lot of fast / double / triple tonguing and I kept getting mush (most likely because of me). I switched to the "1" and the articulations cleaned up.