TromboneChat

I was wondering if it is safe to submerge my rotor valve section in water as it is quite dirty. Will it ruin the rotors?

It's best to take it apart first by removing the valves. Or, just best done by a tech.

A string linkage may have the string damaged by lengthy immersion in water (it tends to stretch). Big problem with just submerging is that it will take a while to get all the water out so you can re-oil the valve.

Also, if the rotor is really dirty or corroded a submersion in water won't do too much good.

This is a photo of the inside of a valve where the user cleaned it exclusively while assembled and never took it apart. I trust my point is made.

Brad -

That might be the origin of Covid-19! I hope you washed your hands after taking that picture, and I think 20 seconds doesn't cut it! God bless the repair techs!

Jim Scott

brassmedic wrote: ↑Tue Mar 31, 2020 7:15 pm This is a photo of the inside of a valve where the user cleaned it exclusively while assembled and never took it apart. I trust my point is made.

20190716_213616.jpg

Jeez

Get out the proton packs!

Gross. That is full of coronavirus. That hand needs a glove.

Don't worry. That's an old picture. Long before someone decided they needed to eat bat soup. The takeaway from this should be you HAVE to take the valve apart to clean it properly. Period.

Brad,

Please tell me that isn't a Greenhoe that was done so wrong.

I was thinking of doing this. Not going to do it now.

Just take your valves out and do it then. It's not too difficult.

It’s not getting them out that worries me, it’s getting them back in.

Bach5G wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 5:57 pm It’s not getting them out that worries me, it’s getting them back in.

That's... not really any harder. Just need a nice delrin or rawhide mallet, which you used to get the valves out in the first place.

Bach5G wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 5:57 pm It’s not getting them out that worries me, it’s getting them back in.

Just make sure you use plenty of super glue.

Seriously, though, the way to get the bearing plates seated right is to get a PVC T joint, set it over the plate (that you've lubricated with grease), and gently tap with a rubber mallet. That's the toughest part of re-assembly- if the bearing plate doesn't seat right, then the valve won't work well at all.

Bach5G wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 5:57 pm It’s not getting them out that worries me, it’s getting them back in.

It's super easy.

Way 1:
Begin to seat the plate with your fingers, screw the bearing cap on to slowly seat the plate most of the way, and then use a pvc pipe end cap and a rubber or rawhide mallet to seat it completely.

Way 2:
Begin to seat the plate with your fingers, and then use a pvc pipe end cap and a rubber or rawhide mallet to seat it completely.

Dennis wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 3:51 pm Brad,

Please tell me that isn't a Greenhoe that was done so wrong.

O.K., I won't tell you.

harrisonreed wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 7:15 pm Begin to seat the plate with your fingers, and then use a pvc pipe end cap and a rubber or rawhide mallet to seat it completely.

The cap from a bottle of valve oil will work too, if you don't happen to have PVC lying around.

In between disassembled cleanings I put a rubber wine cork in the end, pull the tune slides and fill the horn up past the valve with a water white vinegar combo. The vinegar combo is great for slide too. After a soak a good rinse is needed. I have a few old mouthpieces soldered to garden hose fittings. Makes it easy to flush out the horn often.

Pics of the mouthpieces soldered to garden hose fittings.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rubrr8 ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15AN3J0 ... sp=sharing