P24g valve

ttf_hyperbolica · Post by **ttf_hyperbolica** » Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:58 pm

Just got a p24g. Valves work ok, but F valve clank on return. The stop sounds worn. How do I take the plate off?

ttf_JohnL · Post by **ttf_JohnL** » Sun Aug 27, 2017 10:37 pm

I prefer to disassemble the valve to get to the bumper. Since the bumper usually lasts a year or more, it's a good time to wipe the gunk off of the rotor and out of the casing. If you've never disassembled a rotor valve, get someone who knows what they're doing to show you how. Before you disassemble the valve, take a look at the bearing cap and note which of the three holes the spring end is in. Choosing a different hole will change the preload on the spring.

The bumper is a single O-ring (size 2-005) on a post that's mounted to the back side of the casing. There's a matching slot cut in the underside of the stop plate. I've tried a few different materials over the years; the latest batch I purchased is made of Viton. If you run into trouble finding that size, PM me with your address and I'll mail a couple to you.

I carry tools, spare O-rings and a spare springs in the case of my primary horn. I can change out the bumper in just a couple minutes.

ttf_hyperbolica · Post by **ttf_hyperbolica** » Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:00 am

I've dis-and re-assembled my 88h valves many times, but these are slightly different. If they work the same just with an internal spring, i can deal with that. Thanks for the tips.

ttf_JohnL · Post by **ttf_JohnL** » Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:05 am

What you're hearing may be looseness in the linkage. I'd suggest disconnecting the linkage lever from the stop plate and seeing if the valve is still noisy. A couple drops of bearing and linkage oil should do the job if it's the linkage.

ttf_hyperbolica · Post by **ttf_hyperbolica** » Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:15 am

I've got two distinct noises. One in the first valve where I'm pretty sure it's the stop, as it only happens when I free-release the lever. The second noise is in the second valve where the linkage actually hits the plate at some angles of pushing lever. So for the second valve, I may have to bend the linkage a little.

The valve itself appears to work well, but are there any commonly used lever/linkage alternatives out there?

ttf_JohnL · Post by **ttf_JohnL** » Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:15 am

Quote from: hyperbolica on Aug 28, 2017, 08:15AMI've got two distinct noises. One in the first valve where I'm pretty sure it's the stop, as it only happens when I free-release the lever. The second noise is in the second valve where the linkage actually hits the plate at some angles of pushing lever. So for the second valve, I may have to bend the linkage a little.Be careful bending the linkage. If you go too far, it will bind. See if you can tighten the spindle screw a bit; that will pull the stop plate down away from the linkage screw. BE GENTLE. That's a big head on a small screw, so it's easy to damage it. You might want to disassemble the valve and make sure the mating surfaces between the spindle and stop plate are clean and burr-free before trying tighten it up.

QuoteThe valve itself appears to work well, but are there any commonly used lever/linkage alternatives out there?I've seen a couple where someone redid the linkage, but the Olds design isn't like what's being used today, so the common solutions won't work without modification.

ttf_hyperbolica · Post by **ttf_hyperbolica** » Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:50 pm

I got some time to take it apart and it was a hardened and split oring. So I ordered a few. It's a nice system that eliminates trimming bumpers and using accessible off the shelf parts. Not a big fan of the internal spring, though.

ttf_hyperbolica · Post by **ttf_hyperbolica** » Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:50 pm

I got some time to take it apart and it was a hardened and split oring. So I ordered a few. It's a nice system that eliminates trimming bumpers and using accessible off the shelf parts. Not a big fan of the internal spring, though.