Olds Mouthpiece Receiver Drill-Out

[Arendsdale]

Hi all,

I’ve seen a few threads on here with people talking about how they enlarged their Olds mouthpiece receiver to make it fit a standard small shank mouthpiece. Does anyone have any instructions/suggestions and tool lists/sizes to do it correctly?

[BGuttman]

You need a tapered reamer. I used to think a Morse #4 was the size, but it's not right. You may need to find one for musical instruments.

[Posaunus]

I’ve seen a few threads on here with people talking about how they enlarged their Olds mouthpiece receiver to make it fit a standard small shank mouthpiece. Does anyone have any instructions/suggestions and tool lists/sizes to do it correctly?

I strongly recommend getting a Doug Elliott mouthpiece set with an Olds Shank instead of irreversibly modifying the trombone.
My DE "Olds" sets work great with my Olds Studio and my Olds Recording trombones -
but since I haven't modified the receiver I could still use my original Olds mouthpieces.

[brassmedic]

The receiver is normally part of the leadpipe and is pretty thin metal (unless it's a 2 piece pipe like later Kings and Yamahas). It would be risky to try to ream it; you could easily cut all the way through the pipe.

[Macbone1]

I had this done to my Ambassador decades ago, on recommendation of my band teacher. I could then use ANY mouthpiece I chose. I tend to think it also helps the resale value of the horn for that reason. Olds mouthpieces aren't THAT good. But as always, proceed with caution.

[Arendsdale]

I had this done to my Ambassador decades ago, on recommendation of my band teacher. I could then use ANY mouthpiece I chose. I tend to think it also helps the resale value of the horn for that reason. Olds mouthpieces aren't THAT good. But as always, proceed with caution.

I'm assuming you had a tech do the work?

[Macbone1]

I'm assuming you had a tech do the work?

Actually it was a machinist. I'm from a very small town.

[JohnL]

Actually it was a machinist. I'm from a very small town.

If you want someone to do a job like that, a good machinist might actually be a better choice than the average tech, just as long as they're clear on what's needed.

[Macbone1]

JohnL, the ol fella did a fine job in fact.

[CharlieB]

Been there.
Won't bore readers with dimensions.
A Bach mouthpiece will slide into an Olds receiver about half-way.
Judicious reaming will allow further insertion, but in order to get FULL insertion, it's necessary to ream away the full thickness of the leadpipe (receiver.)

[JohnL]

Won't bore readers with dimensions.

Please tell me you didn't do that on purpose.

[UrbanaDave]

I find the Doug Elliott D 2.5 Olds shank works great with a D or C+ cup on my R-15. I prefer an LT D on the R-15 (.495/.508) and an LT C+ on my Studio, Super, Self-Balancing, and Ambassador (all .485/.500). The D 2.5 Olds shank is the hero that makes it all work. Thanks to Doug for making the option readily available!

Also, the thought of altering an R-15 makes me a bit sad. Leaving it original might be best for retaining its value.

[rudytbone]

I find the Doug Elliott D 2.5 Olds shank works great with a D or C+ cup on my R-15. I prefer an LT D on the R-15 (.495/.508) and an LT C+ on my Studio, Super, Self-Balancing, and Ambassador (all .485/.500). The D 2.5 Olds shank is the hero that makes it all work. Thanks to Doug for making the option readily available!

Also, the thought of altering an R-15 makes me a bit sad. Leaving it original might be best for retaining its value.

I went to TMEA last week to see Doug and picked up that combination with the C+ cup (103 rim) and am very happy. Doug's really nice as well!

[Posaunus]

I find the Doug Elliott D 2.5 Olds shank works great with a D or C+ cup on my R-15. I prefer an LT D on the R-15 (.495/.508) and an LT C+ on my Studio, Super, Self-Balancing, and Ambassador (all .485/.500). The D 2.5 Olds shank is the hero that makes it all work. Thanks to Doug for making the option readily available!

Also, the thought of altering an R-15 makes me a bit sad. Leaving it original might be best for retaining its value.

I went to TMEA last week to see Doug and picked up that combination with the C+ cup (103 rim) and am very happy. Doug's really nice as well!

For my "minty" Olds R-15 Recording, Doug Elliott set me up with a D3* / Olds Shank and an LT D Cup.
Paired with my LT 100 Rim, it's a perfect combination for that trombone.

I would never even entertain the thought of irreversibly damaging that beautiful classic instrument by trying to ream out the leadpipe.

[WGWTR180]

Please do not do this.

[ghmerrill]

People should lighten up about this. Over 25 years ago I ruined a perfectly good Schilke 66 tuba mouthpiece by "drilling out" the shank "just a bit". It's all part of the learning experience. Drilling out (How? By hand? With a bit from Harbor Freight?) a thin wall receiver might be well worth it in terms of the knowledge and understanding gained from the experience and result. That part of the horn can always be rebuilt, although just replacing the horn will probably be cheaper.

[WGWTR180]

Sure. We'll lighten up. Thanks

[ghmerrill]

I thought you might. I feel better already.

[WGWTR180]

I thought you might. I feel better already.

But to be fair drilling out a mouthpiece is much lower risk than drilling out a mouthpiece receiver.